Mixing & Applying Farmhouse Finishes
Very Important: Please read this entire Direction Sheet before using this product.
FARMHOUSE FINISHES ORGANIC MILK PAINT FOR WALLS is a re-creation of the ancient MILK PAINT formula used for centuries before the sale of commercially made paints. It comes in rich colors that are durable and do not fade. Also, since our Farmhouse Finishes Safepaint is made from elements that pre-date the use of petrochemicals and other toxic bases an Farmhouse Finishes is preferred by those who are chemically sensitive and those sensitive to the need to protect the environment.
Where traditional milk paint is known for its flat, uneven, somewhat streaky appearance, Farmhouse Finishes, while still a true milk paint, has a more uniform appearance, while still very flat. It is fine for all interior wall applications both residential and commercial, including hospitals, retirement homes, schools, nurseries, offices, stores and public areas used by people allergic or otherwise sensitive to chemically based paints.
Farmhouse Finishes can be painted on most clean, dry surfaces. Where our traditional Old Fashioned Milk Paint prefers a porous surface, Farmhouse Finishes prefers a nonporous surface. Once cured it develops good water resistance, however for surfaces expected to receive heavier wear, we recommend sealing with our safecoat Acriglaze topcoat. An oil or solvent-based sealer is recommended for kitchen applications to protect against kitchen oils such as grease splatters.
Farmhouse Finishes works on some surfaces better than others. Unless you know the condition of the surfaces beneath previous coats of finish, we do caution you about the use of Farmhouse Finishes over layers of paint that may have been applied without proper cleaning beforehand.
Farmhouse Finishes dries very rapidly and shrinks in all directions while drying. This can pull and tug on the previous layers quite strongly, enough in some cases to cause any weakly bonded existing underlayers to peel off, thereby creating serious problems. We also do not recommend using Farmhouse Finishes over primer-sealers with stain blockers such as Kilz or Zinsser Bin, or any flexible caulks including silicone or latex. See PROBLEM SURFACES * at the bottom of this page.
DIRECTIONS FOR USE
1. SURFACE PREPARATION
ALL SURFACES MUST BE CLEAN AND DUST FREE. If you can rub the palm of your hand across the wall and see dust, you will need to vacuum and wash the wall.
Farmhouse Finishes has excellent adhesion to most surfaces, and is self priming over drywall, joint compound and new plaster. If the surface has been primed or previously painted, apply two coats of Farmhouse Finishes in a small area and test for adhesion, after 24 hours. For previously painted multiple coated surfaces, it is very important to also test the layers of paint for adhesion to each other. This is to be sure that the old paint won’t peel off and take the new paint with it. First, cut a one inch long “X” in the old paint film with a razor blade or sharp knife. This is not foolproof, however,so it’s best to do this in a few different areas. Then apply a strip of masking tape over the “X,” and rub the tape on firmly. Then pull it off quickly. If the old paint comes off with the tape, you have poor adhesion, usually created from re-painting over an unclean surface.
REMOVE OLD PAINT
If the old paint films do have poor adhesion, we do NOT recommend painting over with any water paint, including Farmhouse Finishes . The old paint should be removed by stripping or sanding and scraping. If you don’t remove it, the new paint may lift off the old paint, at least in some areas.**
On sound surfaces, professional finishing practice states that any surface to be painted or repainted must be cleaned and dulled, not shiny. All grime should be removed with a washing soda such as Sugar Soap, according to the manufacturer's recommendations, and shiny surfaces should be scuffed up with sandpaper. Surface must be clean, sound and free of oil, grease, dust and dirt. By ignoring this practice, the new paint may not adhere well and future coats could peel off when repainted.
On any surfaces that have been chemically stripped of finish, be sure to neutralize any residual chemicals by wiping the surface with a 50/50 vinegar and water solution prior to repainting.
If you are unsure about the surface you are painting, painting over repairs, or if you plan to paint more than two coats (if mixed up properly, the paint should cover well in two coats), it may be a good idea to add our Extra-Bond into the first coat.
This is not so much for adhesion as to add some flexibility to this first coat. We do not add plasticizers to our natural milk paints, and as a result they form a brittle, hard coating when dry. And as it dries it shrinks and pulls on previous layers. This can result in pulling away a layer of old paint that is not well adhered to the original surface, or it can result in some very fine cracking or checking that you may notice if you look closely at the surface.
Adding Extra-Bond to the first coat can help alleviate these issues if they were to occur. Therefore, while it is not required, it is our recommendation that you might add Extra-Bond to increase the flexibility of the paint. It will extend the coverage of your first coat. And, while it is not a natural product like the paint itself, Extra-Bond also has zero VOC's, and just a faint smell.
2. FARMHOUSE FINISHES MIXING
To make one quart of paint- start with 18 floz. (2-1/4 cups) water & a 1-quart package of Farmhouse Finishes powder.
To make one gallon of paint- start with 72 floz. (9 cups) water & a 1-gallon package of Farmhouse Finishes powder.
To make up a 30g sample, the easiest way is to measure out the powder and water by volume. So whatever you are using to measure the powder into the mixing bowl or container, use the same to measure in the water. For example:
- One scoop of water for every scoop of powder
- One spoonful of water for every spoonful of powder
Note: these amounts are approximate, and may vary with paint color. But they are a good place to start.
After following mixing instructions adjust paint mixture by stirring in a little more water if it seems to be too thick. Consistency should be that of conventional wall paint.
For larger quantities use a paint paddle on an electric drill and a container larger than the amount of paint you are mixing (for example use a 2 1/2 gallon bucket when mixing a gallon of paint).Farmhouse Finishes mixes best with a mixer, rather than by hand.
For small amounts mix by hand or use a kitchen mixer and a small round container.
It’s best to use room temperature water.
Start off with about 1/3 of the water in the bucket and gradually add paint powder, mixing until dissolved. Start mixing at low speed until the powder is wet, then increase to a higher speed.
The paint may start off looking foamy and frothy, which is normal.
Keep alternating powder and water in small amounts, thoroughly mixing at each step and not allowing the mixture to get too thick or dry, until you get the desired volume and consistency. Scrape the sides and bottom of the bucket or container while mixing. The paint should now be very smooth and not foamy.
Before pouring the mixed paint into a roller tray, check the bottom of the bucket for lumps — continue mixing until they are gone.
Stir paint every ten minutes or so while using, and add more water to achieve the proper consistency if the paint thickens. Be careful not to thin it too much as you will not achieve good coverage if paint is too thin. If lumps should appear as the paint sits, remix with your mixer.
Note: Farmhouse Finishes thickens the most in the first hour after mixing. Therefore it's important not to leave it unattended after mixing for long periods of time (i.e. lunch breaks, etc.) without being able to stir or thin it if necessary.
If you have paint left over, you may be able to save it, especially if mixed on the thinner side, like light cream. Store in a sealed container or with saran wrap and a rubber band stretched over your mixing vessel. After sitting the paint may need to be remixed.
You will want to use a good quality brush for cutting in, and short nap rollers. Cut in as little as possible around windows, doors, etc. to avoid differences in appearance between brushing and rolling.
Two coats will provide best coverage. Your first coat may not look perfect - that’s normal. Do not keep pushing the paint around. Allow this first coat to dry and form a primer coat. You should have even coverage with your second coat. Too many coats or excessively thick coats can cause cracking. Paint that is too thin will result in poor coverage. Wait at least two hours between coats. Clean up tools immediately with soap and water.
Any unused powder can be stored indefinitely in an airtight container such as a glass jar.
|Powder Weight||Makes Up||Coverage|
|Quart Bag||16oz / 450g||0.95 litres||7 squ metres|
|Gallon Bag||64oz / 1.8KG||3.80 litres||30 squ metres|
* PROBLEM SURFACES
Calcimine Paint: Calcimine was widely used for ceilings into the early 20th century, and contained minimal binders. It is essentially chalk. It is almost impossible to paint anything over calcimine paint- especially milk paint. Sometimes the calcimine extends onto the upper part of a wall. If you choose to paint on such a surface, the calcimine paint needs to be removed.
Note: Use extra caution and test surface when painting over modern ceiling paint as well, as it often contains minimal binders.
Horsehair Plaster: Plaster, especially old horsehair plaster, can be somewhat crumbly, and would not be considered a sound surface. If the walls appear to be in good shape, they must be cleaned thoroughly and should not be primed.
Old Wallpaper Paste: Wallpaper paste residues may create a problem with adhesion and or lead to the new paint cracking or peeling. It should be removed and the surface cleaned before painting.
NOTES ABOUT ORGANIC PAINT
A natural paint like Farmhouse Finishes does have its limitations and quirks, but it has inherently beautiful qualities that you will not see in a chemically based paint. Not only does it give a room character and a certain presence, and changes color in different light throughout the day, but you may also paint your bedroom in the afternoon and sleep in it that night without having to breathe noxious fumes.
Why it’s best to mix up only what you plan to use that day if possible:
Since we choose not to use unnatural extenders or preservatives in our paint, it can thicken and gel up over time. This was true with pre-industrial era milk paint. But we think the inconvenience is worth it to keep our paint truly natural and safe.
You may also notice a slight ammonia odor when opening a stored container of liquid milk paint. This is a natural occurrence and dissipates quickly.
Keep in mind that although Farmhouse Finishes may look like conventional flat paint on the wall, it is not like using typical latex or oil-based paint that you might be used to.
We do not recommend Farmhouse Finishes for exterior use at this time until further outside exposure testing has been done.
FARMHOUSE FINISHES COLOURS
The colors will vary slightly from batch to batch due to minor variations in the natural earth materials. If you wish to change the hues, or make tints of the colors (some are shown on our Old Fashioned Milk Paint color chart), start with Snow White and add colors to suit your taste. Any of our colors may be mixed together to create new colors.
The best way to develop your “ideal color” is to start with a paper cup and some measuring spoons. Mix your powders together first. Try a tablespoon of a major color and add teaspoons or even fractions of teaspoons of another color. Add a little water and mix well. The color will look darker when wet, so paint the sample on a piece of cardboard. The first quick test will show you which direction to go from there. Then simply multiply your measurements and make up the needed quantity. If you are going to use a sealer over the paint, try it first on your test piece to check the final color and sheen.
DECORATIVE FINISHES/FAUX FINISHES
Decorative finishing, such as graining, marbleizing, sponging, crackling, etc. is an art and not a science. Therefore we cannot stress too strongly the importance of testing every step of your finishing project on scrap or at least on a test area before applying your first coat on your project. Practice and testing cannot be overemphasized. The many books and courses available will help to guide you, but nothing takes the place of practice with small test samples mixed in paper cups.
Just as in Colonial times, and earlier, our Farmhouse Finishes milk paint does contain lime, milk protein, clays and earth pigments. We use no lead, no chemical preservatives and no hydrocarbons or other petroleum derivatives. The other ingredients are inert materials.
Farmhouse Finishes is non-toxic as it contains no petrochemicals or VOC’S. When wet, our paint has a slight earthy milk odor which will disappear in a few hours. The hydrated lime is highly alkaline, naturally anti-bacterial and lowers its alkalinity as it catalyzes with the acidic milk protein.
Keep the paint powder sealed until ready to use. If it is kept dry and air-tight, it should last indefinitely. If exposed to air or dampness for any period, the active lime becomes inert and turns to chalk. When this happens, the paint won’t mix up properly and if applied can powder off. We recommend storing unused powder in a glass or metal container with a tight lid.
Since the use of our products is not under our direct supervision, we cannot guarantee any results of use beyond our control, even though the directions were followed.
Seller’s and manufacturer’s only obligation shall be to refund the purchase price of our products. Neither seller nor manufacturer shall be liable for any injury, loss or damage, direct or consequential, arising out of the use of, or the inability to use, the product.